Our next day in Jasper National Park was supposed to be the day we hiked Mount Edith Cavell. This was a hike we were all especially excited for.
Instead, it was the day that I woke up sick at 5am and my friends ended up driving me to the hospital a couple hours later. I was suffering from some pretty serious GI symptoms – suffice it to say that there was nothing left in my GI tract by this point – as well as a mysterious pain in my lower back. I couldn’t even keep water down. I’m told that when I showed up at the ER, I was so pale due to dehydration that I looked gray. I didn’t think to look in a mirror. I was too busy being sick and miserable.
And so I spent 9 hours in the Jasper ER getting abdominal x-rays and pain medication and something to calm my stomach. They infused me with 2 entire IV bags and I still didn’t have to pee. That’s how dehydrated I was. By late afternoon, though, I was sitting up in bed playing cards with my friends. And by dinner, I was out of the hospital and eating chicken fingers and fries at a restaurant in Jasper. It was the shortest – but most severe – illness I’ve ever had. Continue reading →
After a night at Honeymoon Lake Campground – in which our camping gear mostly dried out – it was time to continue our journey northward. We hopped back on the Icefields Parkway, poised to spend a day exploring the central section of Jasper National Park. Our first stop, just a short distance up the road, was Athabasca Falls. A very large volume of water travels over this 80-foot waterfall. It’s incredibly powerful! The parking area for the falls just off of the Icefields Parkway on Route 93A, and we walked a short distance in order to view the falls.
The Canadian Rockies never fail to amaze, and Jasper National Park is no exception. Together with Banff and other surrounding national and provincial parks, Jasper is part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks UNESCO World Heritage Site. I’m so glad this whole area is protected, because it’s utterly beautiful!
For the remainder of our time in Banff, we continued north on the main road, eventually leading us up to Jasper National Park, which will feature in my next post. Last week, I left off at Moraine Lake. In the same general area of the park is the other iconic Banff lake – Lake Louise. This lake is larger than Moraine Lake and – at least on the day we were there, which was very overcast – a much lighter shade of turquoise. There’s just something about the color of glacial lakes that’s always so beautiful. I love the way the hues subtly change with the weather and the sky.
The Valley of the Ten Peaks is, as you probably guessed, a valley lined by ten peaks. They form part of the continental divide as well as the border between Alberta and British Columbia. But most pertinent to this post, they form the backdrop for the iconic Moraine Lake.
You’ve probably seen Moraine Lake before. It’s arguably one of the most photographed/painted lakes in the Canadian Rockies. It appears on calendars, computer desktop backgrounds, and I even grew up with a photo of it hanging in the living room, though I didn’t know what it was at the time. Continue reading →
After departing Waterton Lakes, we stopped for the afternoon in Calgary to catch up on the real world. The final installment of the Harry Potter movies had just been released and a little vacation wasn’t going to get in our way of seeing it. We had purchased tickets in advance for a theatre at a mall in Calgary, so we parked, ate some delicious Greek food for lunch, and then shed some tears as the lives of our beloved characters played out on screen.
This was the extent of our time in the city, as we had campground reservations in Banff National Park that evening. As we headed west out of Calgary on Canada Highway 1, one thing became readily apparent: the further north you go, the more rugged and spectacular the Rocky Mountains become. The peaks are taller, the glaciers larger, and the angles sharper.
We had only one full day in Waterton, and our plan was to take the boat across Upper Waterton Lake to the Crypt Lake trailhead and attempt to survive the 11-mile strenuous hike to Crypt Lake. The hike is 5.5 miles in each direction with 2,300 feet of elevation gain, and involves a lot of switchbacks, a ladder, a tunnel, and a very narrow section of trail with chains drilled into the mountainside. And also incredible views, waterfalls, and Crypt Lake, located way up in the mountains on the border of Alberta and Montana. Sounds like an amazing hike, right? It’s been rated as one of Canada’s best, and we were really excited.
But it was not to be. We’d gone to purchase our boat tickets the previous afternoon only to be told that though the trail was technically open, the previous week a woman had slipped on the ice and fallen and was still in the ICU. So we had to put that particular dream on hold. (I have since completed the Crypt Lake hike and it’s every bit as amazing as it’s cracked up to be; but more on that later.)
The Red Rock Parkway was closed due to recent bear activity, leaving that portion of the park inaccessible to us as well. So that left us with heading up the Akamina Parkway for the day, which turned out to be a pretty good third choice. We even saw a bear along the side of the highway! Continue reading →